A Note about Transliteration
Preface and Acknowledgements
1 Far from Heaven
1.1 A Curious Face
1.2 Graffito
1.3 A New American
1.4 Domes and Demons
1.5 A Changing City
1.6 Angry Citizens
1.7 Linking to the Literature
1.8 Postsocialist Urbanism
2 The Missing Museum of the History of the City of Kyiv
2.1 Life in Limbo
2.2 An Imperium of Raiders
2.3 Theater at Teatralna
2.4 A Dubious Home
3 Sketches from the Capital
3.1 Castle Hill
3.2 Notes from Euro 2012
3.3 Monumental Woes
3.4 Demons at Desiatynna
3.5 The Ukrainian Fight Club
3.6 A Missing Mayor
3.7 A Geography of the President
3.8 Helipad from Hell
4 Soviet Ways, Post-Soviet Days
4.1 Looking after Lenin
4.2 Red Army Birthday
4.3 One Day in the Life of the Ukrainian Language
4.4 May 18, 2013
4.5 Heorhiy Ruslanovych Gongadze
4.6 A Personal Warning?
5 Historical Memory
5.1 Place-name Gymnastics
5.2 Remembering the Great Patriotic War
5.3 Babyn Yar
5.4 The Holodomor Museum
5.5 The Legacy of Chornobyl
5.6 Rebuilding Religion
6 The Center of Kyiv
6.1 A Taste of History
6.2 Ghosts
6.3 Maidan: Independence Square
6.4 Khreshchatyk: Main Street Kyiv
6.5 TsUM in Transition
6.6 SS. Sophia, Michael, and Hyatt
6.7 Remaking Andrew’s Descent
6.8 Podil at a Crossroads
7 A Geography of Privilege and Pretension
7.1 A Diamond Monster
7.2 Face Control in Arena City
7.3 Men in Black
7.4 The Strange New Neighborhood of Vozdvyzhenka
7.5 Koncha Zaspa: Gated Hideaway
7.6 Bullies with Bentleys
8 Landscapes of Struggle
8.1 The Killing of Oksana Makar
8.2 Faces of Poverty
8.3 Petty Traders
8.4 The People’s Markets
8.5 The Scourge of Prejudice
8.6 Roma
9 “Suburbia”
9.1 The Residential Ring
9.2 Commerce, Cars, and Billboards
9.3 The Middle Class and the Malls
9.4 Four Photographs
10 Seamy Stories
10.1 “No More Heroines”
10.2 Visitors from Abroad
10.3 Sex Tourism
10.4 Export Wives
10.5 River Vice
10.6 The Voices of FEMEN
11 The Defenders of Kyiv
11.1 Hero City
11.2 The Grassroots
11.3 Save Old Kyiv
11.4 The Republic of Hostynyi Dvir
11.5 Oleksandr Glukhov’s Apartment
11.6 The Ordeal of Oleksandr Hudyma
11.7 The Last Farmstead in Pozniaky
12 Reflections
12.1 A Souvenir and a Song
12.2 A Messy Period
12.3 A Book Review
Postscript
References
Index