The Cow with Ear Tag #1389
by Kathryn Gillespie
University of Chicago Press, 2018
Cloth: 978-0-226-58271-9 | Paper: 978-0-226-58285-6 | Electronic: 978-0-226-58299-3
DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.001.0001
ABOUT THIS BOOKAUTHOR BIOGRAPHYREVIEWSTABLE OF CONTENTS

ABOUT THIS BOOK

To translate the journey from a living cow to a glass of milk into tangible terms, Kathryn Gillespie set out to follow the moments in the life cycles of individual animals—animals like the cow with ear tag #1389. She explores how the seemingly benign practice of raising animals for milk is just one link in a chain that affects livestock across the agricultural spectrum. Gillespie takes readers to farms, auction yards, slaughterhouses, and even rendering plants to show how living cows become food. The result is an empathetic look at cows and our relationship with them, one that makes both their lives and their suffering real.

AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY

Kathryn Gillespie is coeditor of Critical Animal Geographies and Economies of Death.

REVIEWS

The Cow with Ear Tag #1389 addresses a critical issue whose time for discussion has not only come but is in fact long overdue. Gillespie deftly excavates and narrates the singular moments of the dairy animals she encounters, and a very real story of the personalized cows emerges.”
— Yamini Narayanan, Deakin University

“We have been waiting for a book like this. Gillespie grapples with how the dairy industry uses cows as well as the challenge of researching that very thing. Her writing is pitch perfect, richly detailed, and riveting. The Cow with Ear Tag #1389 vividly demonstrates the transformative power of scholarship to bear witness.”
— Carol J. Adams, author of The Sexual Politics of Meat

“In a gripping narrative, Gillespie weaves together an informative discussion of the complexities of the dairy industry with heart-wrenching reflections on the impact of this commodification process on animals. She reveals alternative relationships of care that can help us look more closely, see better, and hopefully work toward changing ourselves and other animals.”
— Lori Gruen, author of Entangled Empathy

“Simultaneously engaging, provocative, rigorous, and heartfelt, The Cow with Ear Tag #1389 demystifies the doublethink that dazes decent people into complicity with callous cruelty. Let Gillespie be your tour guide to the dairy farm, state fair, and petting zoo, and you might find yourself exploring the backroads of your own mind.”
— pattrice jones, author of The Oxen at the Intersection

“Gillespie’s stories and writing bring this book to life. We can feel the cows breathe and smell the grass as she unlocks the intricate relationship we have with these gentle animals. Her ability to explain complex issues in simple terms makes this an important read—especially for those who want to help foster compassion and understanding.”
— lauren Ornelas, founder and executive director of Food Empowerment Project

“Positioning her work among such investigative classics as Upton Sinclair’s The Jungle and Eric Schlosser’s Fast Food Nation, Gillespie uses scholarly methods to bring to light the often hidden side of what it takes to produce such foods as cheese and ice cream. . . .Interviews with dairy farmers and 4-H participants give fascinating insight into the emotional toll sometimes exacted on humans. . .Gillespie also vividly describes the deleterious effects of long-term dairy production on the animals themselves, as demonstrated by the titular cow. . .She succeeds in ensuring her readers will never look at a glass of milk in quite the same way again.”
— Publishers Weekly

“What price a glass of milk? In this trenchant examination of the dairy industry, animal-studies researcher Kathryn Gillespie investigates its workings, wastefulness, and impacts on the environment. . .Gillespie’s central focus, however, is the effect on the cows, bulls and calves involved, before their inevitable slaughter. Her careful field research in auction yards and slaughterhouses shows how commodification of animals too often leads to severe, and disturbing, health and welfare issues.”
— Nature

“I'm equal parts haunted and motivated by The Cow with Ear Tag #1389. . .This hard-hitting book explores, with thoughtful-yet-unapologetic precision, the life cycle of individual animals—such as '#1389'—transporting rapt readers to auction yards and slaughterhouses, and paving the way for vital new inroads to discuss what it means to be truly empathetic.”
— VegNews

“How to help in a system that prizes profit over compassion is one of the main concerns in the book. . .We Americans have decided that some animals— .g., cats, dogs, hamsters, parrots—are companions and that others—e.g., cows, pigs, goats, lobsters—are dinner. We argue over the ethics of those choices, but Gillespie raises a more fundamental question: What do we owe any animal, including the ones from which we take milk? Her answer as implied in The Cow with Ear Tag #1389 is that we should not make them suffer.”
— Washington Independent Review of Books

“Gillespie describes the cultural picture of dairy in the US by analyzing print and online resources from various points on dairy’s commodity chain: academic papers on animal agriculture, agricultural law, advertisements. These contextualize the book’s most immediately arresting passages . . .Gillespie also situates dairy against a backdrop of societal anxieties about domesticity, hygiene and safety. . .Her book draws from her discussions with dairy industry employees who did agree to speak to her but, at the same time, she is most keen to pay attention to animals’ biographies, arguing that these challenge capitalism’s depersonalizing logic.”
— Times Literary Supplement

“Gillespie holds nothing back, taking readers through the nightmare of the industrial slaughter-industry with eloquent but unsparing prose. The particular cow in question survives to live untroubled on an animal sanctuary, but the book is harrowing about the millions and millions not so fortunate.”
— Best Books of 2018: Science and Nature, Open Letters Review

“There is much to be learned from Gillespie's book. . .She's remarkably sensitive to the ethical, methodological, and existential questions that come up when doing this kind of research. She explores the difficulty of getting approval for research on animals that we readily kill. She works through the many ways that commodification gets in the way of understanding animals. She reflects on the gendered expectations that affect her ability to gain access to her research subjects, as well as the way that they affect what she feels pressured to witness. And she is highly sensitive to the transformative dimensions of research, making some kind of lived response — in her case, dietary change — feel entirely necessary. . . . Gillespie does the reader a remarkable service in making herself visible in the text, letting us appreciate the way that her experience of doing this work shapes the work itself. It's rare to have such transparency, it's a model for anyone concerned to avoid the illusion that scholars are impartial spectators. The Cow with Ear Tag #1389 is worth reading for many reasons, but it's invaluable for this one.”
— Metapsychology

“A brutally frank account of four years studying the US dairy industry, with a focus on the lives of the cows trapped in it from cradle to slaughterhouse.”
— New Scientist

“Gillespie is not the first person to analyze animal agriculture, but she provides a honest and human element to the journey that I found deeply moving. . . . This book is a valuable addition to a growing canon of literature that challenges our understanding of “normal,” that will hopefully, as more people become aware of the horror, lead to positive changes for animals. . . . The Cow with Ear Tag #1389 is doing its part to open hearts and minds.”
— EcoLit

“An incredibly instructive book that can be illuminating for people inside and outside the academy and should be introduced in animal studies courses across disciplines. Having a book one can turn to that overtly unveils the concealed aspects of the dairy industry is an invaluable resource for all those interested in furthering the cause of animal liberation.”
— Animal Liberation Currents

TABLE OF CONTENTS


DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.003.0001
[human-animal relationships;US dairy industry;food politics;knowledge production]
The introduction opens with the story of Sadie, a cow formerly raised for dairy on an industrial-scale California farm who was then used in an agricultural science teaching hospital before ending up at Animal Place sanctuary in Grass Valley, California. Gillespie offers Sadie’s story to ground the focus of the book in the lives and labors of individual animals in the dairy industry. This chapter provides a basic overview of the state of the US dairy industry; ruminations on humans’ relationships with farmed animal species in the United States and the necessity of considering those nonhuman lives commodified for food production; and introduces the challenges of researching the lives of cows raised for dairy. Ultimately, the chapter frames the case for taking seriously the lives, labors, and deaths of those animals raised routinely for food.


DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.003.0002
[research design;ethics review;animal welfare laws;access;ag-gag;information]
This chapter discusses how the research was conducted for this project and the highly political nature of researching the lives of animals in US agricultural spaces. Gillespie explores the shifting legal landscape of federal anti-terrorism legislation and state ag-gag laws (laws that criminalize documenting what goes on in agricultural spaces) and how the university ethics review processes for research involving humans and animals become part of a broader landscape of making research about the lives of animals in agricultural more difficult, if not impossible. As a result of these regulatory mechanisms, accessing spaces where animals are raised for dairy became a central problem for this project. This chapter documents these difficulties and analyzes how research on animals, food, and agriculture is a highly politicized endeavor.


DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.003.0003
[dairy farming;milking;animal agriculture;artificial insemination;Washington]
Within the context of barred access to agricultural spaces, this chapter documents Gillespie’s experience at the only dairy farm she was permitted to visit – a mid-sized, 500-cow dairy in western Washington. The chapter details how animals live on the farm and how raising and milking cows is performed (supplemented by additional textual research Gillespie conducted). Following an extended interview with one of the farmers responsible for animal care at the farm, readers learn some of the practices involved in dairy farming: artificial insemination, birthing, milking, reproductive schedules, feeding, and a glimpse into how cows raised for dairy spend their days.


DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.003.0004
[auction;commodification;capital;exchange;dairy markets]
At its heart, this chapter considers what is at stake in commodifying a living being, like the cow raised for dairy. The farmed animal auction yard is a site of capitalist exchange where the reality of commodification is starkly obvious and helps readers to understand the moments when animals are valued, sold, and exchanged based on their commodity potential. Centered on one visit to an auction yard in western Washington (and informed by other auction yard observations), Gillespie describes the ‘dairy market sale,’ where cows and heifers still viable as dairy producers are sold as replacements for dairy herds. The chapter recounts the logic of the auction yard (how it’s spatially ordered, how its efficiency operates to make the sale of animals mundane, and how the auction functions as a site of exchange) and documents fleeting encounters with individual animals moving through the auction ring.


DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.003.0005
[cull market;auction;slaughter;rendering;beef]
Situated at a different type of auction – the ‘cull market sale’ – this chapter documents ‘spent’ cows from dairy production as they are sold to buyers who have them slaughtered them for meat. As a node toward the end of the cow’s life and one of her last stops before death, the cull market auction reveals in stark detail the deleterious impacts of dairy production on the cow’s life and body. This auction is where we meet the cow with ear tag #1389, the cow who moved Gillespie to write this book. Centered on the soon-to-be slaughtered individual animals, this chapter also documents processes of slaughter and rendering, which operate as methods to eke capital yet again from the cow’s body, in and beyond death.


DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.003.0006
[sanctuary;Animal Place;Farm Sanctuary;intentional community;multispecies care]
This chapter takes the reader to two different sanctuaries for formerly farmed animals in California (Animal Place and Farm Sanctuary) to meet the cows who live there and explore the sanctuary model as an alternative mode of living with and caring for farmed animal species. Combining first-hand experience visiting these sanctuaries, paired with longtime experience volunteering for a sanctuary in Washington state, Gillespie draws on recent scholarship on sanctuaries to think through the ethical and practical possibilities and complexities of how farmed animal species live in sanctuary settings and how readers might reimagine how animals typically farmed for food might otherwise inhabit multispecies societies.


DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.003.0007
[education;4-H;Washington state fair;children;farming]
One of the primary methods through which dairy as a farming institution is perpetuated is through teaching new generations to farm. Programs like 4-H, which include animal agriculture educational programs, teach children an ethic of care and responsibility for farmed animals through their taking on the care of usually a single animal and showing them at county or state fairs. The chapter centers Gillespie’s experience attending the Washington state fair and the 4-H dairy show there, textual research on 4-H and its history, and some supplementary interviews with adults who had been involved in 4-H as children. Ultimately, the chapter explores broader questions about the role of education in shaping the lives of cows raised for dairy and in shaping how consumers come to care (or not) for and about the lives of animals transformed into food.


DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.003.0008
[advertising;marketing;dairy technology;World Dairy Expo;semen;bull]
The contemporary dairy industry is a site of constant technological innovation and capitalist modernization; this was evidenced at the World Dairy Expo (an international dairy industry trade event showcasing the latest dairy technologies). This chapter documents Gillespie’s attendance at the World Dairy Expo in Madison, Wisconsin and centers the technological innovations being peddled at the Expo, as well as the marketing materials proliferating at the exhibitor booths. One of the most striking forms of advertising emerged from the semen supply companies, and so this chapter analyzes those (often highly sexualized) discourses and documents the role of the bull and semen production in dairy farming. Threaded through this chapter are also reflections on the changing Western US landscape, settler colonial histories, and US patriotism as articulated through dairy industry marketing.


DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.003.0009
[environmental impacts;climate change;auctions;calves;veal;industrial farming;California]
Revisiting the site of the auction yard (this time in California’s Central Valley), Gillespie takes a look at larger-scale, industrial forms of production. California is home to some of the largest dairy farms in the United States, and so this chapter reflects on scales of production. The industrial model, while not alone in its deleterious effects on the environment (small dairy farms, too, have profound environmental impacts), highlights serious questions about the (un)sustainability of dairy in terms of water use, air and water pollution, land use, and environmental injustice. While the scale of production in the Central Valley, reflected at the auction yard and in the surrounding dairy farming landscape, is a central theme in this chapter, its framing through the large-scale auction yard allowed further reflections on auctions. In particular, this auction was selling a large number of day-old calves for veal, offering a window into the dairy-veal connection and persistent necessity of veal and beef production to sustain dairy industry productivity.


DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226582993.003.0010
[responses;anti-violence;activism;care]
The conclusion to the book offers a look at different ways that individuals and organizations are responding to learning about the reality of dairy production for the animals themselves. Gillespie offers some possible paths forward for readers who are moved to respond to this information about dairy production. But ultimately, Gillespie poses larger questions about the normalization of violence, about humans’ responsibilities to other animals, and about how humans might care differently and more expansively for and about the other species with whom we share the planet.