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Winner of the 2018 First Book Prize from the Association for the Study of Food and Society

For the past four decades, increasing numbers of Americans have started paying greater attention to the food they eat, buying organic vegetables, drinking fine wines, and seeking out exotic cuisines. Yet they are often equally passionate about the items they refuse to eat: processed foods, generic brands, high-carb meals. While they may care deeply about issues like nutrition and sustainable agriculture, these discriminating diners also seek to differentiate themselves from the unrefined eater, the common person who lives on junk food.

Discriminating Taste argues that the rise of gourmet, ethnic, diet, and organic foods must be understood in tandem with the ever-widening income inequality gap. Offering an illuminating historical perspective on our current food trends, S. Margot Finn draws numerous parallels with the Gilded Age of the late nineteenth century, an era infamous for its class divisions, when gourmet dinners, international cuisines, slimming diets, and pure foods first became fads.

Examining a diverse set of cultural touchstones ranging from Ratatouille to The Biggest Loser, Finn identifies the key ways that “good food” has become conflated with high status. She also considers how these taste hierarchies serve as a distraction, leading middle-class professionals to focus on small acts of glamorous and virtuous consumption while ignoring their class’s larger economic stagnation. A provocative look at the ideology of contemporary food culture, Discriminating Taste teaches us to question the maxim that you are what you eat.
 

A case study on how urban capitalism created a new working-class food system in the port city of Mombasa during the twentieth century​.

In the early twentieth century, East Africans lived primarily in rural areas, cultivating most of the food they consumed. By the start of the twenty-first century, though, millions of people lived in cities, where they purchased their food from markets and eateries. This transformation reflects broader historical shifts in food production, preparation, and consumption throughout the world from a rural subsistence model to a commercial system. Preparing the Modern Meal explores this economic revolution in Mombasa, Kenya, and examines the experiences of those who migrated from rural settings to an Indian Ocean town where they became dependent on the capitalist market for their daily meals.

The change to a commercial food system reshaped the culinary culture of East Africa. In rural communities, diets were diverse and varied with the seasons. Conversely, Mombasa’s commercial supply chains, which steadily delivered staples like maize meal, wheat flour, tea, and meat, led to a more uniform urban cuisine that remained consistent throughout the year.

Urbanization also altered gender roles in cooking. In rural households women prepared the food, but in Mombasa many workers lived in all-male housing and had to cook for themselves. Some even took up cooking as a profession, thus expanding the role of men in the culinary domain. In addition to these themes, Preparing the Modern Meal reviews the emergence of new businesses, particularly those of street food vendors who provided affordable meals in residential neighborhoods and to nearby workplaces. However, these makeshift eateries often clashed with the vision for commerce in a modern city held by municipal officials, who often sought to eliminate these businesses through fines, arrests, and demolition campaigns. Through the lens of food, this book explores the conflicts between elite ideas about urban modernity and the actual ways that poor communities made their lives work in an unequal city.

For most people, grocery shopping is a mundane activity. Few stop to think about the massive, global infrastructure that makes it possible to buy Chilean grapes in a Philadelphia supermarket in the middle of winter. Yet every piece of food represents an interlocking system of agriculture, manufacturing, shipping, logistics, retailing, and nonprofits that controls what we eat—or don’t.

The Problem with Feeding Cities is a sociological and historical examination of how this remarkable network of abundance and convenience came into being over the last century. It looks at how the US food system transformed from feeding communities to feeding the entire nation, and it reveals how a process that was once about fulfilling basic needs became focused on satisfying profit margins. It is also a story of how this system fails to feed people, especially in the creation of food deserts. Andrew Deener shows that problems with food access are the result of infrastructural failings stemming from how markets and cities were developed, how distribution systems were built, and how organizations coordinate the quality and movement of food. He profiles hundreds of people connected through the food chain, from farmers, wholesalers, and supermarket executives, to global shippers, logistics experts, and cold-storage operators, to food bank employees and public health advocates. It is a book that will change the way we see our grocery store trips and will encourage us all to rethink the way we eat in this country.

Glossy magazines write about them, celebrities give their names to them, and you’d better believe there’s an app (or ten) committed to finding you the right one. They are New York City restaurants and food shops. And their journey to international notoriety is a captivating one. The now-booming food capital was once a small seaport city, home to a mere six municipal food markets that were stocked by farmers, fishermen, and hunters who lived in the area. By 1890, however, the city’s population had grown to more than one million, and residents could dine in thousands of restaurants with a greater abundance and variety of options than any other place in the United States.

Historians, sociologists, and foodies alike will devour the story of the origins of New York City’s food industry in Urban Appetites. Cindy R. Lobel focuses on the rise of New York as both a metropolis and a food capital, opening a new window onto the intersection of the cultural, social, political, and economic transformations of the nineteenth century. She offers wonderfully detailed accounts of public markets and private food shops; basement restaurants and immigrant diners serving favorites from the old country; cake and coffee shops; and high-end, French-inspired eating houses made for being seen in society as much as for dining.  But as the food and the population became increasingly cosmopolitan, corruption, contamination, and undeniably inequitable conditions escalated. Urban Appetites serves up a complete picture of the evolution of the city, its politics, and its foodways.