front cover of Gender and the Boundaries of Dress in Contemporary Peru
Gender and the Boundaries of Dress in Contemporary Peru
By Blenda Femenías
University of Texas Press, 2005

Set in Arequipa during Peru's recent years of crisis, this ethnography reveals how dress creates gendered bodies. It explores why people wear clothes, why people make art, and why those things matter in a war-torn land. Blenda Femenías argues that women's clothes are key symbols of gender identity and resistance to racism.

Moving between metropolitan Arequipa and rural Caylloma Province, the central characters are the Quechua- and Spanish-speaking maize farmers and alpaca herders of the Colca Valley. Their identification as Indians, whites, and mestizos emerges through locally produced garments called bordados. Because the artists who create these beautiful objects are also producers who carve an economic foothold, family workshops are vital in a nation where jobs are as scarce as peace. But ambiguity permeates all practices shaping bordados' significance. Femenías traces contemporary political and ritual applications, not only Caylloma's long-standing and violent ethnic conflicts, to the historical importance of cloth since Inca times.

This is the only book about expressive culture in an Andean nation that centers on gender. In this feminist contribution to ethnography, based on twenty years' experience with Peru, including two years of intensive fieldwork, Femenías reflects on the ways gender shapes relationships among subjects, research, and representation.

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front cover of Sadistic Cholas
Sadistic Cholas
Transfeminist Provocations in Contemporary Peru
Olga Rodriguez-Ulloa
University of Texas Press, 2026

Analyzing how Peruvian feminist art and activism subverts and reclaims the chola stereotype to confront colonial and patriarchal institutions.

Indigenous Andean women have long been derided in Peru, spurned by colonial and then national elites as depraved cholas. Olga Rodriguez-Ulloa shows how contemporary artists and activists not only reclaim this term of abuse but also mobilize the stereotype of the angry and perverted chola to confront the cruelties of patriarchy, capitalism, and white supremacy.

Sadistic Cholas examines music, visual arts, literature, and grassroots organizing by self-identified cholas—in particular, Black women and trans and queer feminists. Under colonial domination, cholas were destined for sexual coercion, labor extraction, and reproductive exploitation. While exhuming historical traces of chola resistance, Rodriguez-Ulloa argues that this condition of oppression persisted through the internal war of the 1980s, when Marxist women at the forefront of the armed campaign were condemned as hypersexual deviants. Inspired by their leftist forebears, today’s artists experiment with an aesthetic of sadistic vengeance, configured as rightful self-defense. Yet, in spite of their violent imagery, activist cholas pursue nonviolent goals, promoting a commons of care incorporating people, animals, and the environment.

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